Skip to navigation

Walking Land's End to John o'Groats with Mark Moxon

Bridestowe to South Zeal

Lake Viaduct from the Granite Way
Lake Viaduct from the Granite Way

When it rains, it pours, and this short stage from Bridestowe to South Zeal might turn out to be the straw that breaks the camel's back. Until today things have been going well, even though the blisters have been agony; generally I've been enjoying myself, even in the rain, and I've felt myself getting fitter and fitter, ready for the challenges that I know are ahead. But today everything that could go wrong went wrong, and making me feel even more helpless is the fact that I don't think I could have done anything to prevent it.

The Granite Way

The Granite Way
The Granite Way

I had been going to follow Mr McCloy's suggested route for the entire day, but when I checked in at the wonderfully friendly Glebe Caravan and Camping Park in Bridestowe, the proprietor handed me a leaflet, saying, 'If you're heading to Okehampton you'll be doing the Granite Way; here are the details.' I accepted the leaflet out of politeness, but on closer inspection I realised he was talking sense.

A field of bluebells on the Granite Way
A field of bluebells on the Granite Way
Sourton Tors in the rain
Sourton Tors in the rain
Sourton Church
Sourton Church

Okehampton

Meldon Viaduct
Meldon Viaduct

From Meldon Viaduct the Granite Way follows the Dartmoor Railways line to Okehampton, the line that carries aggregate out of nearby Meldon Quarry and passengers to and from the viaduct. As a walk it's not exactly thrilling, but Okehampton proved a destination well worth reaching, mainly due to the great little café I discovered in the middle of town.

East Okemont River Valley on the Tarka Trail
The rather damp East Okemont River Valley on the Tarka Trail

Poles Apart

A tree carving saying 'I love you'
A lovely little tree carving on the Tarka Trail

I eventually managed to hobble into the campsite at South Zeal, and immediately started setting up my tent in the unusual lull in the rain that heralded my arrival. I could hardly walk with the pain, but my first priority was to get my tent up before the rain came back and soaked all my possessions, and it was in this state of mind that I slid my carbon-fibre tent pole into its slot and watched amazed as it cleanly snapped in two. I couldn't believe it; I paid just under £300 for this tent, and on the third time I tried to put it up, it broke.

A rather miserable Dartmoor as seen from the Tarka Trail
A rather miserable and overcast Dartmoor as seen from the Tarka Trail