Accommodation

Abbots Bromley
I met my first two girlfriends in Abbots Bromley, and it's still a place of great beauty...
Read more

Air Cottage
Well named, Air Cottage has stunning views over Dovedale, onto whose flanks it clings.
Read more

Alltsigh
This hostel is on the shore of Loch Ness, and was the only time I came anywhere near the loch itself.
Read more

Alness
At the Railway Tavern, Barry and I celebrated 1000 miles on the trail with lots of food and lots of beer.

Alston
It's a long haul to Alston, but the Youth Hostel is geared up for walkers... as are the pubs.

Baldersdale
Baldersdale is home to two large reservoirs, a smattering of buildings and some pleasant grassland.

Bath
Bath Youth Hostel is modern, busy and a good place to wash your clothes and relax.

Bellingham
As befits such a remote northern outpost, Bellingham Youth Hostel is extremely basic.

Bewdley
This lovely B&B sums up Bewdley, a town that straddles the pretty River Severn.

Bridestowe
Just outside the pretty village of Bridestowe, this campsite is a very pleasant place to stay.

Brora
I didn't realise I'd booked into a B&B that was quite so far away from the centre of Brora...

Byrness
Byrness is a tiny settlement on the A68(T), but the Youth Hostel is a friendly place.

Cam
As my girlfriend was visiting for a couple of days, we splashed out on a classier B&B than normal...

Crediton
This wonderful B&B is notable because it has a bath, something that's not common in Cornwall.

Crowden
The Youth Hostel at Crowden is a great little place with a good line in evening meals.

Dingwall
After both of us had problems with our B&Bs, Barry and I booked into the National Hotel and ate very well.

Dornoch
Dornoch is a lovely little place; it's not hard to see why Madonna and Guy Ritchie got married here.

Drumnadrochit
Drumnadrochit is a pleasant spot, but even more impressive is nearby Urquhart Castle, on the loch shore.

Drymen
By the time I got to Drymen, my feet were in absolute agony after so many miles of canal walking.

Dufton
The Stag Inn serves massive shanks of lamb and well-kept Bass, which is just what the doctor ordered.

Dunbeath
Dunbeath is small but not unpleasant, and is home to the aptly named Inver Gust House and a good pub.

Edale
Edale has a large and bustling Youth Hostel that's a good place to get ready for the Pennine Way.

Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a stunning city with an incredible castle, and this modern hostel makes a good base.

Fort William
Fort William was where I bought a new pair of boots, as my other boots had given up the ghost.

Gloucester
Gloucester feels like a metropolis after weeks of walking through country villages and farmers' fields.

Haltwhistle
Haltwhistle claims to be bang at the centre of Britain, though it's not the only place to make this claim.

Hawes
Hawes is a a classic Yorkshire Dales village, with winding cobbled streets and a river running through the middle.

Hebden Bridge
Hebden Bridge is a lovely place, and if you don't mind the rabid anti-smoking signs, so is the Angeldale Guesthouse.

Helmsdale
Helmsdale has a lovely harbour and a friendly little hostel, and makes a good final rest stop.

Horton-in-Ribblesdale
Horton is a lovely place, though it's impossible to find accommodation during the Three Peaks race.

Inverarnan
I also didn't stay in Inverarnan, preferring instead the luxury of the Village Inn in Arrochar.

Inverness
Inverness has a modern Youth Hostel that's more like a hotel, as befits this fast-growing city.

Jedburgh
I didn't realise that my B&B was quite so far outside the centre of Jedburgh when I booked it...

John o'Groats
The furthest point from Land's End is the lighthouse on Duncansby Head, a short walk beyond John o'Groats.

Keld
Keld is a tiny village, but the Youth Hostel is a welcome oasis in the middle of nowhere.

Kilsyth
Kilsyth is an awful place, but at least Allanfauld Farm is a pleasant place to stay.

Kings House
The hotel was full when I tried to book, but luckily there was a spare room in the chef's house.

Kinlochleven
This brand new hostel was clean and friendly, which made it a great place in which to be ill...

Kirkby Malham
Kirkby Malham is utterly charming, and is rather quieter and more rural than its big brother Malham.

Land's End
The walk starts at the Land's End Hotel, where I got my photograph taken by the cheesy signpost.

Langdon Beck
Being in the middle of nowhere, Langdon Beck Youth Hostel is definitely a quiet place to stay.

Launceston
I found Launceston not to my liking, but Launceston Castle more than made up for it.

Linlithgow
Pretty little Linlithgow is home to Linlithgow Palace, the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Lothersdale
Lotherdale has no shops and no Post Office, but it does have a pub and some welcome B&Bs.

Melrose
A large and modern affair, this hostel is right by the beautiful ruins of Melrose Abbey.

Middleton-in-Teesdale
The Brunswick Guest House was very pleasant, though the pubs of Middleton are really disappointing.

Midsomer Norton
Midsomer Norton might not be the greatest place in the world, but the Greyhound isn't a bad place to stop.

Old Sodbury
Old Sodbury might sound like a grumpy place to stay, but the Dog Inn is a brilliant pub.

Painswick
Painswick is a lovely village that sports a high-spired church with 99 yew trees in the churchyard.

Pattingham
Pattingham has to be one of the friendliest places I stayed on my entire End-to-End walk.

Peebles
Peebles is a pretty town that straddles the River Tweed; it's lovely, especially if you like vegetarian B&Bs...

Pengoon Farm
Pengoon Farm is a pleasant campsite, and is not far from the wonderful pub The Crown, where the beer is excellent.

Penkridge
I didn't stay in Penkridge, opting instead to visit my parents who live nearby...

Penzance
Penzance Youth Hostel is one of the country's better Youth Hostels, and it's a good spot for the first rest.

Rowardennan
I didn't stay in Rowardennan, instead opting to drive to Loch Long to stay in luxury with my girlfriend.

South Laggan
It was at this Youth Hostel that I consigned my walking boots to the bin after 900 miles on the trail.

South Zeal
This is where my tent broke along with my fighting spirit; I just sat down and cried.

St Breward
I stayed in the wonderful Tarny B&B, which has amazing views over the Cornish countryside.

Standedge
It's a friendly place, is Globe Farm, which is most welcome after miles of lonely moor.

Street
A fairly simple affair that's not always open, Street Youth Hostel is a welcome sight for sore feet.

Taunton
Taunton is a pleasant place to stop, and the Acorn Lodge is a particularly friendly and comfortable B&B.

Tewkesbury
As befits such a lovely place as Tewkesbury, I happily splashed out on this rather pleasant B&B.

Tiverton
Tiverton is a handy stop for sleeping, eating, and drinking a few refreshing pints of real ale – medicinal, of course.

Trecollas Farm
A wonderful B&B that made it worth all the effort of crossing Bodmin Moor with a heavy pack.

Tregolls Farm
Tregolls Farm is a really wonderful bed and breakfast, with great food, a lovely setting and friendly hosts.

Truro
By the time I sank into my bed in Truro my feet were beginning to feel the strain of daily walking.

Tyndrum
Tyndrum isn't exactly huge, but for hungry walkers it sports a Little Chef that's perfect for breakfast.

Waterloo Inn
A convenient stopover rather than a great one, the Waterloo Inn is a bit of a lonely place.

West Linton
The Gordon Arms is easy to miss on the northern end of West Linton, but it has... yes, hand-pulled beer!

Wick
In the 19th century Wick was the largest fishing port in Europe, with a fleet of around 1000 herring boats.

Worcester
Worcester sports a cathedral, a pretty riverside location and plenty of welcoming pubs.

Points of Interest

A50 Uttoxeter Bypass
It took me half an hour to work out how to get past the A50, and even then I couldn't find the correct route...

The A672 was an 18th-century turnpike road where a toll would be charged for passing traffic.

A720 Ring Road
The A720 marks the edge of Edinburgh, and the switch from industrial units to countryside is sudden.

This is the first really long section along the verge of the A9, taking you all the way to Golspie.

From this point on it's road walking all the way, initially on the A9, and then along the A99.

The most exciting part of this dull walk is when the A9 turns off and you move onto the A99 – hurrah!

Anchorage Cottage
Anchorage Cottage would be an idyllic location if it wasn't for the West Highland Superhighway.

Arbor Low
Whoever calls this the 'Stonehenge of the North' clearly hasn't actually been to Stonehenge...

Avoiding the West Highland Way
I decided to avoid the meanderings of the Way over Conic Hill and joined it between Drymen and Balmaha.

Ba Bridge, Rannoch Moor
Bang in the middle of the moor, the midges and horseflies are lethal, especially when you stop for a rest.

Back into the Forest
Not long afterwards it's time to duck back into the forest, just in case you haven't had enough yet.

Badbea
Badbea is the clifftop village where 12 families lived from 1840 onwards after the Highland Clearances.

Balmaha
The harbour at Balmaha is the kind of picturesque scene you see on the cover of a guidebook.

Bath
The centre of Bath is stunning, with its wonderful abbey and the rapids of Poultney Bridge.

Bearslake Inn
This pretty roadside inn is the perfect place to unwind after a long day's walk.

Berriedale
The descent into Berriedale is steep, but after three months on the trail, it's not as bad as it sounds.

Bickleigh Bridge
This bridge was reportedly the inspiration for Simon and Garfunkel's 'Bridge Over Troubled Water'.

Bickleigh Castle
Right by the side of the road is the keep of Bickleigh Castle, with its grand entrance gate.

Black Hill
In bad weather, Black Hill must be one of the most miserable places on the planet, much like Bleaklow.

Blackstone Edge Moor
From the trig point on Blackstone Edge Moor, there's a great view west over reservoir country.

Bleaklow
Bleaklow is the largest area in England not to be crossed by a road, and it sure feels like it.

Bloody Farm Dogs
I had originally planned to take the direct route through this farm, but the farm dogs had other ideas...

Brewood
Pronounced 'Brood', Brewood has the kind of Police Station that you'd only find in a small village.

Bridge of Orchy
The bridge that crosses the River Orchy was built in about 1750, which was no mean feat of engineering.

Broch
Mainly built by the coast, brochs date from between 100 BC and 100 AD, and nobody knows much about them.

Brora
Although I passed through Brora on the way to my B&B, Barry stayed here and had nothing good to say about it.

Brown Knowe
The eastern half of Minch Moor is exposed and extremely windy, and Brown Knowe is the worst part.

Brown Willy
The highest point in Cornwall, the views from the top of Brown Willy are well worth the strenuous climb to the top.

Broxburn Tip
The first of many colourful and bizarre-looking old rubbish tips can be found near Broxburn.

Burley Wood
Burley Wood is a spooky place with its darks woods and ancient earthworks.

Burrow Mump
This conical hill rises straight up out of the flat wetlands, and has a beautiful ruined church on top.

Caledonian Canal
The Caledonian Canal links Fort William and Inverness via Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness.

Caledonian Canal
At the northern tip of Loch Lochy the Great Glen Way again joins the Caledonian Canal.

Caledonian Canal
On the way into Inverness, the Way joins the Caledonian Canal once more, near the end of its journey.

Callendar House Tunnel
This tunnel was built because the owner of Callendar House refused to allow the canal to be visible from his estate.

Cam Fell
The Roman road that crosses Cam Fell is long, straight and seems to go on forever.

Cannock Chase
This area of woodland and heath has deservedly been designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Carn Euny
In this ancient village you can explore a fougou, a 20m-long prehistoric underground tunnel.

Castle-an-Dinas
The views from the summit of these ancient iron age earthworks are well worth the climb.

Castleton
The approach to Castleton through Cave Dale, under the watchful eye of Peveril Castle, is amazing.

Cattle Grid onto Bodmin Moor
From this point the walk leaves the road to strike out across the lonely flanks of Bodmin Moor.

Cauldron Snout
This pleasant waterfall marks the junction of the River Tees and Maize Beck.

Chapel Carn Brea
At 198m high, Chapel Carn Brea is the westernmost hill in England, and the views from here are great.

Chew Green
At the site of the old Roman fort of Chew Green I joined Dere Street, which goes all the way to the Tweed.

Chilcompton
The delightfully strung-out village of Chilcompton is one of the few places with signs saying 'Slow for Ducks'.

Clarks Shoes
Clarks Shoes began life in 1825 as a sheepskin-tanning company, before moving into footwear in 1830.

Claverley
This lovely village is a great place to stop for a pint, just before crossing into Staffordshire.

Cloich Hills
Walking through the forest of Cloich Hills is pleasant enough, though there is quite a bit of logging.

Coaley Peak
The viewpoint at Coaley Peak is well worth the climb up the steep Cotswold escarpment.

Cold Ashton
The Cotswold Way is strewn with pretty village churches like the one in Cold Ashton.

Colton
When I walked through Colton at lunch time, both the pubs were firmly shut - it was a tragedy!

Conon Bridge
We stopped for a pint in Conon Bridge, and that's about all I can say about the place.

Cotherstone Moor
Less pleasant is Cotherstone Moor, which can be extremely wet at times and seems to go on forever.

Cromarty Firth
Cromarty Firth is a nesting ground for oil rigs, which are floated into the firth for repair work.

Cross Fell
The highest point of the Pennines and of my entire walk, Cross Fell is 893m above sea level.

Crossing into Devon
The border crossing into Devon is a fairly nondescript bridge over the River Tamar.

Cumbria-Northumberland Border
At the county border the overgrown greenery along the South Tyne Way suddenly disappears.

Devil's Dike
This 'grough' (a channel that cuts through the peat) creates plenty of 'hags' (steep islands of peat).

Devil's Staircase
The military road climbs to the highest point on the Way via a long series of switchbacks.

Disaster Zone
It looked innocent enough on the map, but this path kept us thrashing about in the undergrowth for ages.

Dismantled Railway
The path follows an old railway line all the eay from Embo to the shores of Loch Fleet.

Dornoch Firth Bridge
The bridge over Dornoch Firth is huge, and is home to plenty of thundering road traffic.

Dovedale
The walk along the River Dove is a classic, best enjoyed early in the morning, before the crowds arrive.

Drovers' Road
In 1803 Thomas Telford started a road rebuilding programme that included this drovers' road.

Dunglass
The path along the southern edge of Campsie Fells is dotted with pretty rock formations like Dunglass.

Dunrobin Castle
The fairy-tale towers of Dunrobin Castle were remodelled in 1841 by Sir Charles Barry.

Dyrham Park
The route goes round the western flank of the Dyrham Park estate, now a National Trust property.

East Marton
Here the Pennine Way joins the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, with its strange double-decker bridge.

Eddleston
The descent into Eddleston is a pretty little jaunt, with good views of the hills across the valley.

Eildon Hills
The three Eildon Hills dominate the skyline here, and the view over Melrose is wonderful.

Elibank and Traquair Forest
I'm rarely pleased to see man-made pine forests, but compared to windy, exposed moor, it's a delight.

Ellastone
Ellastone is home to a pretty bridge over the River Dove... and a llama farm.

Embo Caravan Park
Gathered round the the Grannie's Heilan Hame pub, the caravan park at Embo is huge.

End of Grand Western Canal
The Grand Western suddenly stops: one minute it's there and the next it's not, being cut off by a road.

End of West Highland Way
The West Highland Way ends at a sign by a roundabout, and the Great Glen Way starts at the very same point.

Evanton
Somewhere between Dingwall and Evanton I reached the 1000-mile mark – only 111 miles to go...

Exe Valley Way
This is where you join the Exe Valley Way, which takes you all the way to Tiverton.

Falkirk Wheel
The incredible Falkirk Wheel carries canal boats 34m vertically between the Union and Forth and Clyde Canals.

Forest above Crianlarich
The views over Crianlarich from the path as it enters the forest make this a great lunch stop.

Forestry Commission Tracks
Yet again, the Great Glen Way spends most of the day plodding through tedious man-made forest.

Fort Augustus
Fort Augustus is a picturesque village centred around a staircase of five locks, and it's a popular place.

Forth and Clyde Canal
Despite having 40 locks in 35 miles, the Forth and Clyde has some really long and boring sections.

Fountains Fell
The long, slow climb over windy Fountains Fell is rewarded by a great view of Pen-y-Ghent.

Galashiels
The Southern Upland Way, which I joined just outside Melrose, winds through the suburbs of Galashiels.

Galford Down
In 825 AD this was the site of a famous Saxon victory over the Celts.

Gargrave
Gargrave is a pretty little village, with its own church and a welcoming café.

Garrigill
A sight for sore feet, the pub at Garrigill serves probably the best tasting beer in the world...

General Wade's Military Road
Following the 18th century military road, the route along the shores of Loch Oich is easy walking.

Glacial Boulder
Sitting here, right in the middle of the heath, is a huge boulder, dumped there during the Ice Age.

Glastonbury
The site of ancient Avalon and the grave of King Arthur, Glastonbury is dominated by its amazing Tor.

Gleann Ach'-innis Chailein Viaduct
This railway viaduct curves round the valley, and when steam trains pass, it looks amazing.

Glen Nevis
Descending along the valley of Glen Nevis is a pleasant enough way to end the Way.

Glenmorangie Distillery
Just off the road is the distillery of one of the most famous single malt whiskies in the world.

God's Bridge
This natural stone bridge, where the Pennine Way crosses the River Greta, makes a great lunch stop.

Golf Links
Dornoch's links are world-famous and regularly feature in the top 20 golf courses in the world.

Golf Links
As in Dornoch, the golf links of Brora are just a stone's throw from the centre of town.

Golspie
After such a long stretch of A-road, the pleasant seafront of Golspie can't come quickly enough.

Gospenheale
The only point of note was this farm, where the farmer and his wife invited me in for a cuppa and a friendly chat.

Great Dun Fell
The summit of Great Dun Fell sports a huge golf ball that's home to a commercial aviation radar.

Great Shunner Fell
The walk up Great Shunner Fell is long and arduous, but the views from the summit are spectacular.

Green Fell
The first peak of many on this trans-Pennine walk, the summit of Green Peak has amazing views.

Gurney Slade Quarry
It's an odd thing to walk through the countryside only to bump into heavy industry, but Gurney Slade is just that.

Hardcastle Crags
The Pennine Way misses out lovely Hardcastle Crags, with its peaceful mill and pretty woodland.

Haresfield Hill
Another example of the pointless meandering of the Cotswold Way, Haresfield Hill is easy to avoid.

Hartington
Being very close to Dovedale, Hartington is sensibly cashing in on the resulting tourist trade.

Haughton Common
Haughton Common is marshier than the forest, but at least there are fewer midges in the open.

High Cup Nick
This absolutely gargantuan scoop out of the flanks of the Pennines has to be seen to be believed.

High Force
The highlight of the day, High Force is a huge and powerful waterfall that pounds over 21m-high rock shelves.

Hollins Cross
From the viewpoint on Mam Tor the Vale of Edale is laid out like a planner's model.

Holt
Holt is a beautiful part of the world, with its pretty stone church and residential castle.

Holt Fleet Bridge
Built by Thomas Telford between, 1826 and 1828, Holt Fleet Bridge is effortlessly beautiful.

Horton Court
All you can see of Horton Court from the Way is a lovely church tower and some extravagant- looking Cotswold architecture.

Idless Wood
Idless Wood is a a pretty forest that's run by the Forestry Commission, though watch out for dog walkers...

Ilam
I loved Ilam, right up to the point when I realised that this beautiful village doesn't actually have a pub.

Indian Queens
Indian Queens is home to the campsite-cum-garden experience that is Gnome World.

Invermoriston
The climb out of Invermoriston back into the treeline is steep and not terribly welcome.

Inverness Castle
The Great Glen Way finishes at Inverness Castle, where a plaque proves that it's all over.

Inveroran
The Inveroran Hotel sits at the western end of Loch Tulla, on the southern flanks of Rannoch Moor.

Inversnaid
There's not a lot at Inversnaid except a hotel and a pleasant lawn on which crowds of walkers rest.

Jacob's Ladder
The climb from the Vale of Edale up onto the moorland of Kinder Scout is a vertical 150m up a steep stony path.

Jamaica Inn
Made famous by the novel of the same name, Jamaica Inn is a disappointing tourist trap.

Jedburgh
The mediaeval abbey at Jedburgh has to be one of the most atmospheric ruined buildings in the whole country.

John o'Groats Hotel
The tourist sign at the John o'Groats hotel is a compulsory part of finishing the End-to-End walk.

Joining the Camel Trail
The Camel Trail follows an old railway line, which means it's a pleasantly flat walk.

Joining the Severn Way
Marking the start of my favourite bit of the entire End-to-End walk, this is where I joined the Severn Way.

Joining the West Highland Way
Finally I joined the West Highland Way, which goes all the way to Fort William in the Great Glen.

Keiss Castle
By the side of the road you can see both the ruins of old Keiss Castle and the more recent version.

Kennet and Avon Canal
It's not the most direct route to Bath, but the loop along the canal is a lovely stroll.

Kessock Bridge
Kessock Bridge is an impressively big suspension bridge over Beauly Firth, into which the River Ness flows.

Kinder Scout
The boggy moorland of Kinder Scout is infamous amoung walkers, though the worst bits are covered by paving slabs.

King Arthur's Hall
This ancient rectangular earthwork is presumed to have been a meeting place or a centre for worship.

King's Sedgemoor Drain
When the grass is shoulder high, King's Sedgemoor Drain is utterly exhausting.

Kirkcarrion
The dead used to be buried on this hill near the Pennine Way; not surprisingly it's said to be haunted.

Kirkintilloch
This is where I left the Forth and Clyde Canal and struck north along a disused railway line.

Kyltra Lock
After Loch Oich, it's back onto the towpath of the Caledonian Canal, with its pretty locks like this one.

Lady Lilliard's Stone
This stone contains one of the most amusing poems I've ever read about the Scottish fighting the English.

Lambley Viaduct
The views from Lambley Viaduct over the surrounding landscape are an added bonus.

Leaving the Camel Trail
From here the Camel Trail continues on to Poley's Bridge.

Leaving the Pennine Way
At last, after far too many days of struggle, this is where I left the Pennine Way to its own devices.

Leaving the Severn Way
Sadly, this is where I left the Severn Way behind after four happy days of river walking.

Lewtrenchard
Home of the Reverend Sabine Baring-Gould, composer of 'Onward Christian Soldiers'.

Limestone Link
The Limestone Link is the scenic route east to Bath – so scenic that I just kept getting lost.

Limestone Way
In Rocester (which rhymes with 'toaster') I joined the Limestone Way and soon got hopelessly lost.

Ling Gill Bridge
The bridge over Ling Gill is a postcard, and makes a great spot for bathing sore feet.

Loch Fleet
Sitting by the shore of Loch Fleet is a serene experience, as the estuary is awash with bird life.

Loch Lochy Shore
Loch Lochy has some great views from its shoreline, which the Great Glen Way follows for a while.

Loch Lomond Shore
One of the delights of the West Highland Way is the way it takes in so many pretty lochside beaches.

Loch Ness
Although the Great Glen Way follows the shore of Loch Ness, it does so high up in the trees, hidden from view.

Loch Oich
As before, the Caledonian Canal ends in a loch, but this time the route skirts the southern shore.

Long Drove
If there's a low point on this section, it's the two-mile plod along dead straight Long Drove...

Low Force
Low Force is a bubbling waterfall with peaty water the colour of Newcastle Brown.

M8 Motorway
The driving rain was so strong that I took shelter under the M8, where a kindly local offered me his joint.

Maesbury Castle
Not so much a castle as a mound of earth, the views from the top of Maesbury Castle are lovely.

Malham Cove
Malham Cove looks as if a huge spoon has taken a scoop out of the side of the hillside, leaving quite a sight.

Malham Tarn
It's unusual to find lakes in limestone country, but Malham Tarn sits on top of an ancient layer of impervious rock.

Marazion
The pretty village of Marazion has the good fortune to look over the beautiful St Michael's Mount.

Meldon Viaduct
The views up towards Dartmoor from Meldon Viaduct are stunning, but it can be very windy.

Middlezoy
The George Inn in Middlezoy is a perfect place to refuel before the long haul across the flats.

Milburn Forest
The walk down from Cross Fell along the northern flanks of Milburn Forest is very long and very tedious.

Milton of Campsie
I had to take a diversion in Milton of Campsie, due to works on the track, and I got hopelessly lost...

Missed Turning
I'd intended to take the low route along the edge of the loch, but I missed a left turn right here.

Monkton Combe
The pub in Monkton Combe is a great place for a refreshing pint before tackling the canal.

Monument
This monument to Sir Hector Archibold Macdonald, soldier of the Empire, sits by the road.

Monyash
Monyash is a popular stop for a cup of tea and a piece of cake at the Old Smithy Café.

Nancegollan
Near the little village of Nancegollan is a wonderful abandoned tin mine, with a tall chimney and ivy-covered outhouse.

Neptune's Staircase
The Caledonian Canal starts with a line of consecutive locks, each of which shares a gate with a neighbour.

Nevis Forest
From Nevis Forest you can see Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak, peeking through the trees.

North Moor
There are a lot of moors on this section, but at least North Moor is smothered in attractive heather.

Oaken Clough
It's a long, slow, steady climb from Crowden back onto the moors, over ridges like Oaken Clough.

Odda's Chapel
It's well worth taking the short detour to explore this late Saxon chapel, was built by a kinsman of Edward the Confessor.

Oich Bridge
At the northern tip of Loch Oich sits a beautiful suspension bridge, designed by James Dredge in 1854.

Okehampton
Okehampton is a great place to stop for a rest and a bite to eat.

Old Military Road
From this point the Way follows lots of old roads, such as this military road that dates from the 18th century.

Padon Hill
The endless miles of yet more moor on Padon Hill seem to go on and on and on...

Pain Barrier
It was around here that a sharp pain shot through my foot, putting my walk on hold for a few days.

Peak District National Park
Entering the Peak District, which would be my home until well into the Pennine Way.

Pen-y-Ghent
One of the famous 'three peaks', Pen-y-Ghent is a long, hump-backed hill that dominates the skyline.

Penn Hill
Although you join the Cotswold Way at Bath Abbey, it's on Penn Hill that you first feel you're in the Cotswolds.

Pentland Hills
In the driving rain, the Pentland Hills are pretty desolate, and they feel a long way from Edinburgh.

Penzance
Penzance is the principal town of Penwith, the district at the furthest point of Cornwall.

Philipstoun Tip
The final batch of canalside tips is near Philipstoun, not far from the end of the day's walk.

Pinhaw Beacon
It might have been late June, but the wind that whistled over Pinhaw Beacon was bitterly cold.

Pipeline
The huge pipeline that leads down to Kinlochleven used to drive the town's aluminium works.

Piskies Cove
Piskies Cove is typical of the gorgeous coastal scenery you find along the arduous Southwest Coastal Path.

Ponden Reservoir
At Ponden, the Pennine Way dips steeply into the valley, before struggling up the other side.

Ponsanooth
The view from this point south to the village of Ponsanooth is the kind that makes you want to move to the country.

Porkellis
Not far south of Porkellis is another pretty tin mine, right by the side of the road.

Randwick
As a place to stop for a pint and a feed, the pub in Randwick is very hard to resist.

Ratho
The little village of Ratho has a promising looking pub right on the canal, though it was shut for me.

Red Lion
With its wooden tables right by a bend in the river, the Red Lion is impossible to walk past without stopping for at least one pint.

Redesdale Forest
The long logging track through Redesdale Forest is pretty tedious, and there are plenty of midges.

Reservoirs
For the second day running, the Pennine Way takes in a collection of rather dull man-made reservoirs.

River Aire
The Pennine Way joins the River Aire just shy of Airton and follows it all the way to Malham.

River Avon Aqueduct
This aqueduct is the second largest in the UK, with 12 arches stretching 273m over Muiravonside Country Park.

River Exe
After wandering along the Exe Valley for a while, you finally meet the River Exe here.

River Lochy
The Caledonian Canal follows the line of the River Lochy, and at times they almost touch.

River Tees
The River Tees is a delightful river to walk along, with chunks of dolerite and shale choking the flow.

River Teviot
The first river of two on this leg, the River Teviot is tranquil and all too quickly left behind.

River Tone
The walk along the River Tone is hampered by having to cross irrigation channels every 100m.

River Tweed
St Cuthbert's Way follows the banks of the Tweed for some distance, and it's absolutely stunning.

Road Walking
The main theme of today's walk is the B-road, though good weather and good company make even these interesting.

Rob Roy's Cave
This cave has the word 'CAVE' helpfully painted on the side, so you can't miss it.

Robinswood Hill
The view of Gloucester from the summit of Robinswood Hill is well worth a detour.

Roman Road
The Pennine Way follows a Roman Road for a short distance across Blackstone Edge Moor.

Roman Road
The Roman road from West Linton to Carlops makes for easy walking and neatly avoids the A702(T).

Rose and Crown
Arguably the perfect riverside pub, the Rose and Crown makes a detour through Severn Stoke essential.

Sampford Peverell
Sampford Peverell is the prettiest village along the canal, with a great view of the church across the water.

Sancreed
Sancreed is a small village with a pleasant church, and – as I discovered – friendly locals.

Savile Estate
In the driving rain, the grouse moors of the Savile Estate are eerie, bleak, cold and lonely.

Scotland-England Border
The Pennine Way flits back and forth over the border, but this is where I got my first taste of Scottish walking.

Sennen Cove
Sennen Cove is the first village you pass on the End-to-End walk, though the path skirts above the centre.

Shitlington Crags
The place names round here are grim, but even worse than Shitlington Crags is the cheery sounding Lousy Bog.

Shobrooke
The village of Shobrooke has some delightful thatched cottages, and if you're lucky, thatchers at work.

Shugborough Hall
The residence of Patrick Lichfield and now a National Trust property, this is where my sister got married.

Slaughterhouse
At this point the route takes you through the heart of a slaughterhouse, a reminder of the reality of farming.

Sleightholme Moor
When I crossed Sleightholme Moor the moor was so spongy it felt like I was walking on a trampoline.

Snaizeholme Valley
I could literally lean into the wind that roared in my face as I made my way up Snaizeholme Valley.

Snake Pass
It's after the A57 at Snake Pass that's things start to get a bit more interesting...

Somerset Monument
The first of two monuments on today's route, the Somerset Monument dates from 1846.

Sourton
Sourton is a small village on the flanks of Dartmoor with a pretty stone church.

South Tyne Trail
This flat and pleasant track along a disused railway is a great alternative to the Pennine Way to Greenhead.

Spreyton
Spreyton is a lovely Devonshire village, with its thatched cottages and the Tom Cobley Tavern.

Square Coppice
The charming footpath through Square Coppice was the only overgrown section on the whole day's walk.

St Cuthbert's Way
The lovely St Cuthbert's Way links Melrose and Holy Island, and it's a wonderful walk.

St Michael's Way
St Michael's Way follows the beach east towards St Michael's Mount, and has great views all the way.

Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal
I didn't follow the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal very far, but it was a pleasant way to start the day.

Start of Bridgwater and Taunton Canal
Like yesterday, we join a canal at its source, but today's route leaves it after about four miles.

Start of Grand Western Canal
The start of the Grand Western Canal is attractive, clean and as full of wildlife as it is empty of tourists.

Stinchcombe Hill
The winding path round the edge of this hill is one example of why I found the Cotswold Way irritating.

Stoodley Pike
This 125ft-tall stone tower sits high up on a ridge between Todmorden and Hebden Bridge.

Stourport-on-Severn
Stourport has a delightful park, some lovely locks and a promenade past pubs and ice cream vans.

Stowford
Stowford is a pretty country village with an impressive stone church at its centre.

Strathblane
In Strathblane I decided to ignore the suggested route, and instead stuck to the disused railway.

Summercourt
The London Inn in Summercourt is a great place to stop for a pint and its collection of old books.

Switchbacks
The Way climbs even further up into the trees than before, giving some amazing but all too rare glimpses of the loch.

Sydney Cove
Sydney Cove is the last place that you'll meet the sea on the End-to-End, until Inverness in Scotland.

Tain
Tain is a pleasant little town, though the genetic quality of the people we met in the pub was rather in doubt.

Tan Hill
Tan Hill boasts that at 526m above sea level it is the highest pub in Great Britain.

Tarka Trail
In the sun, the Tarka Trail is no doubt a lovely walk, but in the rain, it's miserable.

Tarmac Road
Even when the Way leaves the forest, it does so for a long and very boring B-road.

Tea Break
I spotted Barry having a cup of tea by the delightful shores of Beauly Firth, so I joined him for a pot.

Telford Aqueduct
This 1832 Thomas Telford aqueduct carries the Shropshire Union Canal over the Roman Watling Street.

The A635 Egg Van
The junction with the A365 is notable for the van selling fried egg sandwiches.

The Mare and Foal
Although it was closed when I walked past, this looked like it would be a great place to stop.

The Old Nag's Head
The Old Nag's Head in Edale is the official start of the Pennine Way national trail.

The Ord of Caithness
The Ord of Caithness is a lonely, windswept part of the world that is said to be haunted.

The Pain Barrier
It was at this point that my blisters suddenly turned nasty, in the most unpleasant way...

The Shit Rink
I got completely lost and ended up having to cut through the only farm in the world that farms shit.

The Three Bretheren
The Three Bretheren are three huge stone cairns (and a trig point) on the southern border of Yair Forest.

The White Horse Inn
If you're lucky enough to get to Bradford-on-Tone in time, grab a pint in the White Horse.

Thwaite
I walked 555 miles to get to the pretty Yorkshire village of Thwaite, which makes it the halfway point.

Top Withens
Top Withens may or may not have inspired Emily Brontë when she wrote Wuthering Heights.

Torside Reservoir
It's a long and boring traipse round the banks of Torside Reservoir to get to Crowden.

Traquair
I left the Southern Upland Way at Traquair, home to Traquair House, Scotland's oldest inhabited house.

Tree Walking
The route soon takes in an A-road and then climbs into the treeline, which rather spoils the view.

Trent and Mersey Canal
I've lived next to the Trent and Mersey Canal since the age of four, so I'm rather fond of it.

Treworgan
The hedgerows on the way in to the small village of Treworgan are typical of Cornwall.

Truro Cathedral
Truro Cathedral is well worth a short detour, as it is an amazingly intricate building.

Turret 37A, Hadrian's Wall
I rejoined the Pennine Way at Hadrian's Wall, just as the Way heads north, away from it all.

Tyndale Monument
This 1866 monument commemorates William Tyndale, the first man to translate the New Testament into English.

Union Canal
The Union Canal connects Edinburgh and Falkirk, and forms the bulk of the next two days' walking.

Union Canal
Nicknamed the Mathematical River, the Union Canal has no locks and stays at the same height from start to finish.

Upton St Leonards
Despite being right next to the busy M5 motorway, Upton St Leonards sports a lovely country church.

Upton-upon-Severn
Upton is a pretty village with some enticing pubs and one of the ugliest bridges you've ever seen.

Victoria Bridge
Victoria Bridge was the largest iron bridge of its day, and it's an impressive sight.

View of Urquhart Castle
Glancing back from the trail before it plunges into yet more forest, you get a great view of Urquhart Castle.

Vindolanda
While avoiding the Pennine Way's route along Hadrian's Wall, I skirted round this old Roman fort.

Wark Forest
Wark Forest is a dismal place, being a midge-infested, man-made pine plantation.

Warth Hill
The final hill on the entire walk gives a good view over John o'Groats and the Orkney Islands.

Water of Leith Cycle Route
This cycle route starts here in Balerno and takes you all the way to the centre of Edinburgh.

Wessenden Reservoir
The Pennine Way winds through seven reservoirs, and goes along the top of Wessenden's dam.

Winchburgh Tip
Just before Winchburgh, a tip that looks like Ayers Rock provides the backdrop to a new golf course.

Wotton-under-Edge
It's a steep walk into Wotton and a steep walk out again, but that's the Cotswold Way for you.

Wrottesley Hall
This well-hidden country estate boasts a rather pleasant golf course.

Yair Forest
Yair Forest managed to protect me from the worst of the rain, though underfoot it was soaking.

Walking Routes

Land's End to John o'Groats